All posts by woodyo6_wp

About woodyo6_wp

I graduated Penn State University with a BS in Parks and Recreation-Environmental Education & Interpretation. With 30 years of experience in Park Management, EE and Natural History Interpretation, I enjoy educating people using Outdoor Photography, Natural History and funny stories and adventures!

Finding the Hidden January Gems

I walked through the quiet forest with no real purpose. Just slowly poking my way through the many oaks, hickories and scattered pines. My binoculars hung around my neck and camera bag was strapped on my back. It was early January, but the landscape was without snow or ice, almost bare-looking, covered in shades of gray and dull brown. As a nature photographer and outdoor enthusiast, I sometimes feel “challenged” at this time of year to find interesting outdoor subjects to photograph and keep my attention, especially during periods without snow. Without any of the white stuff, it almost feels as if winter has become an “in-between season.”

  I’ve stopped short of saying “uninspired,” because every opportunity I get to venture outdoors in nature I cherish, and feel privileged to be able to experience. I get inspiration from even the smallest details in nature! As author Margaret Wolfe Hungerford wrote in her book ‘Molly Bawn’ (1878). … “It’s true that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” So what do I look for in a bleak winter landscape? What features are worthy of further investigation, or a picture or two? For me, it may be COLORS that contrast to the grays and browns of the dormant forest, or MOVEMENTS of critters that may be trying to sneak past me, or fly by. My camera lens may also find UNIQUE PATTERNS or even SIGNS OF WILDLIFE that have come and gone. Or sometimes I just wander, not paying attention to anything in particular, and never snapping a single photo.

Here in the mountains of Virginia, unless Sasquatch struts in front of me, usually the first thing that grabs my attention on a woodland walk in January is a splash of COLOR. Any color that stands out among the endless, gray stands of leafless deciduous trees or brown blanket of dead leaves that make-up the forest floor. Hues of greens from evergreen trees, shrubs and vines, as well as mosses and lichens always invite me to explore them further.

                                         

If you look closely in the forest, bright greens of mosses and reds of Winterberry (above) can add a splash of color to a gray-looking landscape. The forest floor can also be worthy of exploring, as a variety of fungi and lichens (below) are surprisingly easy to find, and make great photos. 

 

In addition, as a birder I feel confident I can usually find birds somewhere during my outings. But bright year-round plumages of some of our common birds, such as Northern Cardinals, Blue Jays, Eastern Bluebirds or even the large elegant-looking Pileated Woodpecker, makes them easier to spot in the somewhat dreary woodlands. But their color isn’t the only thing I notice, it’s their movement in a still environment.

       

If you spend enough time in the outdoors your senses become a bit more acute, and you become much more aware of your surroundings. As you pause for a few minutes, small MOVEMENTS may catch your eye. It might simply be the erratic flight of a Downy Woodpecker flying from tree to tree in search of insects, or a small group of winter gray White-tailed Deer sneaking through a patch of thick brush. If I’m lucky, I might catch a glimpse of a curious Opossum busily foraging in the dead leaves. In the forest, horizontal movements against a landscape dominated by vertical (trees/shrubs) features is what draws my attention. These could only be for a few brief seconds, but may provide a memory that lasts for much longer!

 

When wildlife is absent during my woodland walk, my focus may simply turn to what I can find and discover along my route. These could be UNIQUE PATTERNS, such as the different bark of trees, different types of rocks, or just interesting looking tree growth. And if I don’t spot any critters, I always love searching for SIGNS OF WILDLIFE. What animals were in the area? What were they doing and which direction were they traveling? Did they leave anything behind as evidence? These clues may be lead to further investigation. The forest has many mysteries to solve, many stories to tell! Some of these hidden treasures might be a buck rub on a small sapling, mysterious tracks left in the mud along a small stream, a feather laying on a fallen log, or the mighty holes created by woodpeckers searching for bugs. Signs of wildlife, big and small, are all around us. We just have to slow down and take it all in!

   

Tree bark can show distinct and unusual patterns, and are much more noticeable in the winter (above). In the winter, I also enjoy photographing plants that grow in unusual places (below).

 

                                           

                                     Wildlife signs may include buck rubs and woodpecker holes.

From a distance, the gray forest in January may look lifeless, dreary, or even boring. But if you take your time, open up your senses (and imagination) and become a nature detective, you just might discover some of the hidden beauties that brighten up your gray day! Enjoy the outdoors!

The Garden Island

We all have our own definition of paradise, or a place where we have visited we may consider paradise. One of Webster’s Dictionary defines paradise as “a state of bliss, felicity, or delight.” Oh, and if you’re not sure exactly what “felicity” means, it means happiness. So, by definition, paradise is any place you feel happy! For me, I have a lot of paradises! Recently, Theresa and I had the opportunity to visit one such paradise-the island of Kauai, in Hawaii.

Like the other Hawaiian Islands, Kauai’s climate is tropical, with generally humid and stable conditions year round. Daytime temps don’t vary much throughout the year, averaging about 78 degrees F in February, to 85 degrees F in August. It was the lure of these sunny days, beautiful beaches and warm water to swim, snorkel and surf (sorry, not me) that attracted us to Hawaii to celebrate our 30th anniversary and temporarily escape the cold, snowy weather of Virginia in late November/early December. But, why Kauai, compared to the more well-known islands of Oahu, Maui or the “big island” of Hawaii? As a bit more adventurous, we wanted something more than your average beach vacation, and with Kauai’s dramatic landscape beauty, we found it!

 

Known locally as the “Garden Island,” Kauai is the oldest (approximately 5 million years old) and northernmost island in the Hawaiian chain. Although it only covers a total area of about 532 square miles (about 1/3 the size of our smallest state, Rhode Island), it’s volcanic origin has created emerald valleys, sharp mountain spires and jagged cliffs aged by time and the elements. Centuries of growth have formed tropical rainforests, forking rivers and cascading waterfalls! The highest peak on this mountainous island is Kawaikini at 5,243 feet. This area is renowned for being one of the wettest spots on earth, receiving over 450 inches of rain each year. The high annual rainfall has eroded deep valleys in the central mountains, carving out canyons with many scenic waterfalls. On the west side of the island is the Waimea River whose flow formed Waimea Canyon, one of the world’s most scenic canyons, which is part of  Waimea Canyon State Park. At 3,000 ft. deep, Waimea Canyon is often referred to as “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” On one of our day trips up through the canyon, we drove our rental vehicle up a very steep, windy road with no guide rail. Although around every curve there seemed to be a perfect photo stop, Theresa politely, and a bit nervously, reminded me to keep my eyes on the road! She did not want to experience another scary close call like we had in California a few years ago-known in our family as the “Death Valley Incident of 2015!” On that infamous hot afternoon in May, one of the front tires of the car I was driving (Theresa’s side) accidentally slipped off the pavement of a really steep road (again with no guide rail) we were driving up. It was a pretty dangerous 500’ drop off, on the edge of a rocky cliff. To this day, the details are still blurry to me, but my wife and daughter insisted my eyes, and steering wheel, turned slightly to the right when a bird flew across the road right in front of us. They didn’t seem to care, when, after re-gaining my own composure, I told them it was a cool-looking Rock Wren! They didn’t speak to me for an hour. The road up through Waimea Canyon was much the same. However, I think we were sold on this destination when we saw photos/video about the canyon and the wild and scenic Na Pali Coast.

 

 

Waimea Canyon State Park (top-left & right and bottom left, taro fields-bottom right)

If you’ve ever watched any of the following movies: Jurassic Park (1993), Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981), King Kong (1976), Pirates of the Carribean-On Stranger Tides (2011), Six Days Seven Nights (1997), Tropic Thunder (2007) or a dozen others, then you’ve seen parts of the Na Pali Coast of Kauai. I’m pretty sure I saw a velociraptor running along one of the remote beaches! The pali, or cliffs, provide a rugged backdrop of deep, narrow valleys ending abruptly at the sea. Waterfalls and swift flowing streams continue to cut these narrow valleys while the sea carves cliffs and caves at their mouths. Extensive stone walled terraces can still be found on the valley bottoms where Hawaiians once lived and cultivated taro. Over the years, there were a few places we’ve visited that no matter how many photos and/or videos you take, they just couldn’t capture the true essence of experiencing them in person. The Na Pali Coast of Kauai is absolutely one of them! If you can, you gotta see this place!

 

   

                   Above-Theresa and I at Polihale State Park, and the beautiful Na Pali Coast of Kauai

Along with the gorgeous landscapes, the clear blue waters that surround Kauai also hold a rich variety of natural treasures teeming with marine life. Colorful fish inhabit the striking coral reefs, while Green Sea Turtles forage along the coast for sea grass and jellyfish, as well as using the many unspoiled beaches to lay their eggs. In the winter months Humpback Whales share these warm waters with pods of Spinner Dolphins and the endangered Hawaiian Monk Seal. From the many rock cliffs, an assortment of sea birds such as Brown and Red-footed Boobies, White-tailed and Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Great Frigatebirds, Laysan Albatrosses and several Petrels and Shearwaters, soar for hours on trade winds in search of fish. And wild birds aren’t the only birds that inhabit Kauai.

 

Above-Spinner Dolphins (left) and the endangered Hawaiian Monk Seal taking a nap (right)

Below-Green Sea Turtle (left), Laysan Albatross (center), Black Noddys (right)

         

From the minute we stepped out of the airport in Lihue, we encountered our first Hawaiian animals. Notice I didn’t say wildlife. Nope, they were chickens, or moa, in Hawaiian. They’re pretty much everywhere, from rural areas to downtown streets and suburban neighborhoods. We saw them in local parks, shopping centers, beaches and golf courses, and yes, crossing just about every road. Why? Because they own many of the roads! The only places we really didn’t see them were around any KFC and the local Chicken-In-A-Barrel restaurants! The roosters crow every day-of course early every morning, but also mid-day,  and sometimes at night. They really don’t care when, they just keep roostering! Historians say the fowl were brought to Kauai by the Polynesians as a source of food, thriving on an island where they have no real predators. Most locals agree that wild chickens proliferated after Hurricane Inki ripped across Kauai in 1992, destroying chicken coops and releasing domesticated hens, and well as roosters being bred for cockfighting. From my perspective, Kauai’s wild chickens add to the culture of the island. During most of our visit they really didn’t bother us, except for a mid-week lunch at a local food truck establishment when a fairly aggressive hen jumped up on our picnic table and decided it wanted to share our burritos. Don’t think chickens can’t fly when in danger! Hawaii’s official state bird is the endangered Hawaiian Goose, or Nene, but on Kauai, everyone jokes that the “official” birds of the Garden Island are feral chickens, especially the wild roosters. And from what Theresa and I observed, almost every place we visited, there were tourists snapping photos of them, and I admit, so did we!

                  

Above-The “unofficial” state bird-The Chicken

 

 

  

 

Above-Row 1-Endangered Hawaiian Goose (Nene)-the State Bird of Hawaii

Above-Row 2-Adult & Juvenile Red-crested Cardinals (left), Japanese White-eye (right)

Above-Row 3-Kilauea Point NWR and lighthouse

Above-Row 4-Kilauea Point NWR w/Laysan Albatross (left), looking for ocean critters (right)

Kauai is a great place to visit, and enjoy. Its small towns and rural areas still retain their proud Hawaiian culture and customs. The natural landscapes are breathtaking and magical, and the warm waters that surround the island are home to a rich variety of marine life, and invite visitors to take a dip in the surf. It truly is a small piece of paradise, and can make you, well….. happy!

                 

Inner Banks-Outer Banks

As we gazed across the open field, we spotted a large, black critter slowly moving along a patch of tall weeds. Using our binoculars, we identified the “dark blob” as an adult Black Bear munching on some type of root it had pulled out of the moist soil. We were parked along the Wildlife Drive in Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) and before we departed for the evening, we were lucky enough to spot 5 more adults and 2 cubs. The last adult we watched sat lazily in a field of sweet potatoes just as the sun was setting. I would like to say it was doing something spectacular, but it just sat there, like it was finishing the last bite at an all-you-can eat buffet, then got up and proceeded to take a nice long poop, before strolling away. I didn’t think it wanted its picture taken at that moment, so I just put the camera away. Tyler and I looked at each other, laughed, and hurriedly jumped back in the car to escape the attacking mosquitos. Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge has what is believed to be one of the largest concentrations of Black Bear found in the southeastern United States. This refuge, along with stops at Pocosin Lakes NWR, Pea Island NWR and Cape Hatteras National Seashore, were part of a quick weekend adventure Tyler and I took to the Outer Banks/Inner Banks area of Eastern North Carolina.

  

         

INNER BANKS

 

        

Top Right-Bald Eagle, Bottom Left- American White Water Lily, Bottom Right-Northern Red-bellied Cooter 

I consider Alligator River NWR and Pocosin Lakes NWR part of the “Inner Banks” region of Eastern North Carolina-an area loosely defined as, East of I-95 and just west of the Outer Banks. Both Alligator River NWR (152,000 acres) and Pocosin Lakes NWR (110,000 acres) were established to protect and preserve a unique type of wetland habitat called a pocosin, and the wildlife associated with it. A pocosin habitat is made up of poorly drained soils which are incredibly high in organic material, like peat. Because of this, in wet rainy weather, these deep peat deposits can retain large quantities of water. In dry conditions, the area is very susceptible to wildfire and can literally slowly burn for months. The vegetation can be very thick, with a variety of shrubs, and trees such as Bald Cypress, Black Gum and Loblolly Pine. The word pocosin comes from a Native American term which roughly translates to “swamp-on-a-hill.” The main wildlife attractions at Alligator River NWR are Black Bears, American Alligators and the rare Red Wolf. Unfortunately, we didn’t catch sight of any Alligators, even after taking a 3-hour kayak trip deep into the backwaters of the refuge. Alligator River NWR is at the limit of their northern range, so they’re not as common here as they would be further south. However, we did see many other species of wildlife including Bald Eagles, Red-headed Woodpeckers, Turtles and Deer (and the previously mentioned Black Bears). But our real quest was to learn more about the federally endangered Red Wolf……and maybe even hear or see one.

Kayaking through Alligator River NWR

 

MY RED WOLF SOAP BOX

Red Wolves are one of the most endangered species in the world. Currently, the only wild population is limited to a five county area of Eastern North Carolina, and Alligator River NWR has been the focus of a restoration recovery effort to reintroduce the endangered Red Wolf into the wild.

Photo by Contributed Photo /Times Free Press

In 1973, Red Wolves were declared an endangered species. Efforts were initiated to locate and capture the remaining wild wolves found in the Louisiana and Texas coast area. Of the 17 remaining wolves captured by biologists, 14 became the founders of a successful captive breeding program. The founding Red Wolves had to be a pure bred species, meaning not a mixed breed of wolf and coyote. Consequently, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service declared Red Wolves extinct in the wild in 1980. By 1987, enough Red Wolves were bred in captivity to begin a restoration program on Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. Since then, the program has expanded to include three national wildlife refuges, a Department of Defense bombing range, state-owned lands, and private property, spanning a total of 1.7 million acres. But the program hasn’t been without conflict and controversy, and management of the wolves is now changing, and in my opinion, is not good news for the future of Red Wolves. After initially increasing, the population plateaued and then declined. Today, only approximately 35 wild wolves remain, with a further 200-plus wolves in captive breeding facilities. The program is referred to as “the non-essential, experimental population of Red Wolves in North Carolina (NEP).” Many people feel the reintroduction has been a failure-claiming it’s been too expensive and has decreased deer populations. Still others question whether the animals are truly pure bred wolves at all. Currently, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service is proposing a rule that would “restrict management to the Alligator River NWR and the Bombing Range.” In addition, “under this new proposal, there would be no prohibitions on the take of red wolves on non-federal lands outside the NEP area, provided the take occurs in conjunction with an otherwise lawful activity.” In other words, their recovery range will be drastically reduced from 1.7 million acres to approximately 198,000 acres, and it would be legal to kill any Red Wolves that wander outside these two areas on to private property.

Although we learned a lot about this controversial animal, and the reintroduction program, unfortunately, Tyler and I didn’t get the opportunity to hear, or see, any Red Wolves on our trip into Alligator River NWR. However, I’m planning on returning soon to learn more about the decisions being made to change the management of the Red Wolves, and possibly get a chance to hear or see this beautiful animal nicknamed the “the ghost wolf!”

OUTER BANKS

As part of our trip, Tyler and I wanted to spend some time near the ocean, so we headed east to the Outer Banks to possibly catch some early migrating shorebirds. This 200-mile stretch of barrier islands is located just off the east coast of North Carolina and southeast Virginia. It includes the islands of Bodie, Roanoke, Hatteras and Ocracoke. These islands separate the Atlantic Ocean from several large Sounds (Albermarle, Currituck, Pamlico). It’s a major tourist destination because of the miles of beautiful beaches and water-based recreation, rich history and diverse amount of wildlife. Even with the increasing amount of human development, the Outer Banks has a rugged, raw beauty to it, constantly battling Mother Nature with harsh weather, rough waves and shifting sand dunes. It’s easy to see why so many people enjoy visiting here, and, the reason that so many people are deciding to relocate to the area permanently. Like so many of our other amazing, natural places, I just hope it doesn’t get “loved to death!”

                             

Most of our day on the Outer Banks was spent visiting Cape Hatteras National Seashore and Pea Island NWR, where we enjoyed seeing a few shorebirds such as Sanderlings, Willets, American Oystercatchers, Ruddy Turnstone, Terns, Brown Pelicans, Black-bellied Plovers, Black Skimmers, and one of my favorites, Whimbrel. Pea Island NWR is 13 miles long and about 5,834 acres. It was established in 1938 to provide nesting, resting, and wintering habitat for migratory birds, as well as protection of habitat for the endangered Loggerhead Sea Turtle. The refuge also provides environmental education and interpretation for thousands of visitors annually.

Above-Ruddy Turnstone (L) and Willet (R) and nesting Least Terns and Black Skimmers (bottom)

Along with checking out the variety of birds, we also managed to get in a little exercise by climbing up the 257 steps to the top of the famous Cape Hatteras Light Station, the tallest lighthouse in the U.S. at 208 feet. As we ascended the iconic black and white striped structure, I realized I no longer get embarrassed as I stopped to take my 7th break on the steep, winding staircase, and several chattering 10-year olds who barely seem to be breathing hard, shuffled on by me! One of them paused to politely ask me, “Hey mister, are you ok?” As I lifted my head to see what kind of creature would be asking me this 200’ straight up, I muttered back, “Why, don’t I look ok?” “No, not really,” the little rug rat replied, as he hunched his shoulders and trotted out of sight above me. After finally reaching the top and enjoying the awesome views, I gracefully walked past the same little tot, smiled and said, “Remember me?” The last I saw of him we were back on the ground and he was pointing at me while talking to his father. Little bugger!

                                  

Eastern North Carolina has so much to see and do with its renowned Outer Banks, and many wildlife refuges and parks of the Inner Banks. You could easily spend several weeks exploring all the region has to offer. Theresa and I will be back in a few weeks to explore the northern reaches of this area-stay tuned for Part 2 of the Outer Banks!

From The Land Down Under

We boarded our plane bound for Sydney, Australia at 10:30pm (PT) on a Saturday night from Los Angeles.  About 15 hours later my sister Cathy and I arrived in the “Land Down Under,” at 6:30am on a Monday. Now Cathy has made this trip a few times before, but for me, this was my first journey to Australia to visit my brother Eric and his family. As we flew west over the Pacific Ocean toward sunrise, we joked about an old episode of the Twilight Zone, where a man lost a complete day in his life, somehow briefly traveling through time. That’s how I felt. I kept asking Cathy, “What happened to Sunday?” You can’t just lose a day-it doesn’t compute with my simple mind! She explained to me that we “skipped” Sunday because we traveled across the International Date Line. Now, I understand the concept that my Google buddy provided me, that “the International Date Line is imaginary line on Earth’s surface defining the boundary between one day and the next, and runs from the North Pole to the South Pole-marking the division between the Western and Eastern Hemisphere.” But like most humans on this planet, I’ve only known one day to the next-the sun rises, the sun sets, and 24 hours later it does it again. Ummm, OK, but I missed that Sunday, even though I never had the pleasure of experiencing it….weird!

Somewhere over the Pacific Ocean we  crossed the International Date Line and “lost” Sunday

So, why do they call it “down under?” It’s quite simple actually. If you’ve ever seen a globe of the world, you’d notice that Australia is below the equator, positioning it ‘below’ many other countries on the globe. And yes, its permanent population is entirely below the equator. The term is not just used to refer to Australia. It’s also sometimes used to refer to New Zealand, or both.

Like most of my outdoor blogs, this one will focus on nature, and a few of the awesome places, and critters that Eric and his wife Helen, guided us to see during my short visit to Australia. But, since our trip was “based near Sydney,” I’m going to share a little geography lesson with you first. Now don’t sigh, or roll your eyes! Just keep reading. It won’t hurt you to get a bit more “learnins” about a place that’s 10,000 miles away from most of the people who have the pleasure of reading this!

Brother Eric looking at downtown Sydney

The first thing you notice when arriving in Sydney is that it’s big, really big! With a population of about 5 million, it’s easily the largest city in Australia…..and for a tourist like me, the most well-known city. In fact, my guess is that it may be the only city in Australia that many Americans could even name, if asked. And surprisingly, it’s NOT the capital of Australia (Canberra is the capital). Sydney is the capital of the state of New South Wales. There are (8) states in AustraliaWestern Australia, South Australia, New South Wales, Australian Capital Territory, Queensland, Northern Territory and Tasmania. Although there are only eight states that make-up the entire country, Australia is a big country. It’s about the same size as the continental United States. In fact, traveling from Sydney to Perth (East Coast to West Coast) is about the same as traveling from New York to Los Angeles. OK, back to Sydney for one more paragraph.

 

Resting in front of the famous Sydney Opera House, and the Sydney Harbour Bridge (there are people walking across the very top of the bridge)

Eric offered to take me into downtown Sydney so I could play tourist, and see a few of the popular sites, like the other 15 million visitors Sydney receives each year. We hopped on the train just a few blocks from his home, just to the north. In my short time there, I was really impressed by their public transit system in and around Sydney. Many trains, buses and even ferries form an efficient network that seemed to be easy to use, reliable, clean, and fairly cost efficient. Our destination that morning was the world famous Sydney Harbor-home to the iconic Sydney Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Botanical Gardens, Circular Quay and nearby museums, beaches and parks. However, I told Eric I simply wanted to snap a few photos to show proof I was actually there, pick up a few souvenirs, and head back. There was way too many people for my comfort level! So my brother knew exactly where to take me for cheap souvenirs-Paddys Market. This typical, large covered market with dozens of small stalls, sells just about anything “Australian” you can think of, and several interesting items you didn’t think of. I especially enjoyed discovering the vast selection of items you could haggle for that were made from specific parts of Kangaroos! Eric and I only spent about 25 minutes near the Sydney Opera House, Harbour Bridge and briefly stopping to watch one magical street performer in Circular Quay.

                       

Hovering Golden Guy street performer in Circular Quay (L) and a sampling of items in Paddy’s Market (R)

But, I roamed around Paddy’s Market for over an hour, bartering over t-shirts and sweatshirts, inspecting hairy bottle openers and trying on the many Aboriginal designed oven mitts! It was very enriching 60 minutes, but it was time to depart the hustle and bustle of the big city and start checking out some of the local parks near Sydney.

As Helen (our Australian sister-in-law) helped us plan a few day trips in the area, one thing that stood out to me during my visit was the variety of awesome National Parks and beautiful beaches that are so close to Sydney, and easily accessed by public transportation, or a short drive by car. Our plans included a hike up to Barrenjoey Lighthouse, part of Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, a day trip to Blue Mountains National Park, and of course, squeezing in a fishing trip (or two) with brother Eric. Only having a week to visit, we were trying to pack in as much as we possibly could. NOTE: My next trip (very soon)…2 weeks minimum!

Between day trips, I managed to wander around Eric’s neighborhood to check out the local birdlife.  I discovered some of their amazingly colorful birds…..and extremely loud birds! It seemed like almost every species living there, has to be heard-and they call, cackle, and squawk all day long! Some of the more vocal birds included Rainbow Lorakeets, Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, King Parrots, Noisy Miners, and of course, Laughing Kookaburras….and yes, they did sit in an old Gum Tree!

  

ABOVE – Left to right – Rainbow Lorakeet, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo and King Parrot

BELOW – Noisy Miner (L) and Laughing Kookaburras (R)

 

Located in Sydney’s north, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park is Australia’s 2nd oldest national park. It combines a rich history with natural beauty-including rainforests and eucalypts, beaches, rocky cliffs, the Hawkesbury River and amazing ocean viewpoints. One of those viewpoints is Barrenjoey Lighthouse. Built in 1881 from sandstone quarried on site, this well-known Sydney attraction stands at Barrenjoey Head at Palm Beach, and is a popular whale-watching spot from May-September. As I huffed and puffed up the challenging 30-minute walk to the top, I regretted sneaking that last Tim Tam into my mouth, boastfully claiming that I needed it for “extra energy.” I really could have used a glass of milk with that hidden Tim Tam for “extra, extra energy!” The hike up the steep, but well maintained trail, was well worth it though, as we were rewarded with 360 degree views of Broken Bay, the Pacific Ocean and the Central Coast. As we rested at the top, Eric pointed out a few of his favorite fishing spots, as well as telling me about Lake Macquarie, another one of his preferred fishing locations, and our destination for the next day.

                        Three siblings at Palm Beach, before hiking up to Barrenjoey Lighthouse

 

Barrenjoey Lighthouse with Broken Bay (L) and Eric, Helen and I stop for a pic after hiking up to lighthouse (R).  The Pacific Ocean is in the background.

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New birds for me at Palm Beach – New Holland Honeycreeper (L) and Masked Lapwing (R)

After sightseeing and hiking for a couple days, we decided to kick back on Eric’s boat and do a little fishing on Lake Macquarie. Lake Macquarie is about 120 kilometers (74 miles) north of Eric’s home, and is Australia’s largest coastal salt water lagoon. It’s twice the size of Sydney Harbour.  We were hoping to catch a few of his favorite fish-Bream. Bream are relatively small fish (a big one might be about 16 inches), but are very popular with anglers in Australia. I probably would have caught a few more fish, but was distracted by all the new birds I was seeing, including White-bellied Sea Eagles, Black Swans and Silver Gulls.

     

White-tailed Sea Eagle (L) and a flock of Black Swans (R)

I did manage to catch one Flathead, a nasty-looking fish that looks kinda like a long flounder on steroids, but with razor sharp teeth and sharp fins! I didn’t heed my brother’s warning about those sharp fins after reeling it in and boasted that I have handled many fish like this before, just as this zilla-fish decided to impale one of its fins deep into my thumb! I give Eric credit, he just politely smiled, asked if I was “ok,” and reminded me to take the rag and clean up my blood from his boat seat. Australian Flattie 1 – Richard 0!

                             The Skipper, Gilligan and Mary Ann enjoying a day on Lake Macquarie

                                   

Eric with his favorite fish, a Bream, and me holding a nasty Flattie that brutally attacked my thumb right after this photo was snapped

I was really looking forward to our final Australian adventure-a day trip with Helen and Cathy to Blue Mountains National Park, about 2 hours west of Sydney. The Blue Mountains are a mountainous region that encompass scenic steep cliffs and valleys, eucalyptus forests and waterfalls covering more than 3,800 square miles (1 million hectares). The Blue Mountains get their name from the natural blue haze created by vast eucalypt forests in this World Heritage area. Tiny droplets of oil released from the trees mix with water vapor and sunlight to produce the distinctive color. 

A private company offers visitors a variety of ways to see a few popular areas of the park, including the famous rock formation called The Three Sisters. You can choose to take a ride on the Scenic Cableway, Scenic Skyway or Scenic Railway, as well as the Scenic Walkway-otherwise known as a trail! Of course we decided to purchase the grand combo ticket and experience all modes! Personally, I enjoyed the 52 degree incline of the Scenic Railway, promoted as riding the steepest passenger railway in the world. I’m sure sister Cathy enjoyed it as well, as it probably reminded her of riding one of her favorite roller coasters in some exotic, mountainous amusement park.

 

            The Scenic Cableway (L) and getting ready to descend on the Scenic Railway (R)

      

Helen and Cathy in front of the Blue Mountains (L) and Cathy and I on the Scenic Walkway

Our last trek of the day took us on the scenic walkway. The plan was to casually stroll along on the 2 kilometer walkway through the rainforest and loop back to the railway, before heading home. As we entered what we thought was the beginning of the circular walkway, I noticed a sign guiding us further into the National Park. We all chatted about which direction we should go, but never gave it much thought after that, and proceeded down the narrow dirt trail.

I thought to myself that their “Scenic Walkway” was in need of some much needed trail maintenance. After walking for about 30 minutes, our agreed upon route didn’t seem quite right. At one point Helen and I remembered Cathy saying she didn’t mind climbing down the steep, narrow trail as long as we didn’t have to go back (up) the same way. After another 20 minutes of walking and reading another confusing sign, we realized we went the wrong way. I didn’t have the heart to tell Cathy, I figured she would discover our error as we mountain climbed our way back to the trailhead….she did! But the alternative was even more challenging. We would have to hike an additional 3 kilometers, then have to complete our hike by climbing up the 800+ step Grand Staircase to get to the top of the canyon. Cathy said if we decided to choose this option, we should just leave her and let the Dingos feast on her. I agreed, so we left her there with a couple Tim Tams and a bottle of water! Just kidding….I ate the Tim Tams! Despite our trail confusion, it was a great morning in the Blue Mountains of Australia! Many thanks to Helen for sharing this outdoor adventure with us!

My week in Australia visiting Eric, Helen, Kate and Connor was fantastic, and I can’t thank Cathy enough for joining me and making me a little less nervous during those long flights! I’m already thinking about how I can get Theresa and I back to the Land Down Under very soon and visiting everyone again….even if we do lose another day somewhere! It’s so worth it! Cheers!

 

Up from the Ashes-Springtime in the Great Smoky Mountains!

On Wednesday, November 23, 2016, around 5:20 p.m. a small fire was discovered near the top of a steep hill called Chimney Tops, in Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GRSMNP), Tennessee. This was the same location where another fire occurred about a week before. GRSMNP firefighters spotted the new fire as they returned from responding to a report of a vehicle fire.  The earlier fire on the hill was named “Chimney Tops” — hence the name “Chimney Tops 2” for the new blaze.

Unfortunately, conditions were perfect for a forest fire. The entire Southeast had been in a very severe drought for over 4 months, and since there had not been a major fire in this area for decades, there was plenty of fuel (dead trees and debris on the forest floor) for the fire to burn very quickly. Because the fire was burning in a remote location with limited access, and no structures were threatened, Park officials allowed it to burn, monitoring its progress closely. By Saturday, November 26th, the fire was 8 acres in size. On Sunday, an updated weather forecast predicted wind gusts out of the south for Monday morning of 25 mph, increasing at noon to 30 mph and to 40 mph by 6 p.m. The fire was south of Gatlinburg. By the end of the day on Sunday the fire had burned approximately 35 acres.

When maintenance employees with GRSMNP drove past the Chimney Tops 2 Fire early Monday morning they saw that the intensity and rate of spread of the fire had increased dramatically. It had burned into a picnic area and crossed the main road into the park, US Highway 441.The wind and the low visibility caused by the smoke made it impossible to fly aircraft over the fire. It was estimated that the fire had grown to approximately 250 to 500 acres, and was headed toward Gatlinburg. Over the next two weeks, and fueled by high winds, the fire burned everything in its path, leaping from ridge top to ridge top. It wasn’t until December 20th that fire officials stated the fire had been contained (was out). The aftermath was one of the worst natural disasters in the history of Tennessee. The Chimney Tops 2 fire that spread from Great Smoky Mountains National Park into the city of Gatlinburg, Tennessee tragically killed 14 people, forced 14,000 to evacuate, destroyed or damaged 2,500 structures, and burned 17,000 acres. The cost-over 2 billion dollars!

I recount this terrible incident because Theresa and I had just visited the area two weeks earlier in November, 2016……and 1 ½ year later (late April, 2018), we returned to the park to see how it’s recovering, and also participate in the annual Wildflower Pilgrimage. What we discovered was how extremely destructive nature can be, but also has an amazing ability to heal quickly! Up from the ashes, new life emerges!

A few of the burned ridge tops of the 2016 Chimney Tops 2 Fire……16 months later.

As part of our guided program, we took a hike right through the center of one of the most severely burned areas of the park. As we walked and listened to our program leader, the charred remains of trees and shrubs harshly reminded us of what happened only 16 months ago. Yet, popping up through the blackness, many green plants were emerging. Thousands of Table Mountain Pine tree seedlings, new Rhododendrons and Mountain Laurel shrubs, grasses and even a few tough wildflowers, were beginning to restore the area to the rich, diverse environment the park is known for.

  

Burned areas of Great Smoky Mts National Park (top). The cones of the Table Mountain Pine need fire to release their seeds. Hundreds of Table Mountain Pine Tree seedlings sprout from the charred floor of the forest.

During our quick 3-day visit we saw over 50 species of wildflowers, along with too many species of trees, shrubs, ferns and fungi to list. It was a botanical smorgasbord! Throw in 40 species of birds, a few Black Bears and deer, rivers roaring with spring runoff and spectacular mountain views around every turn, and you just can’t beat spring in the Great Smoky Mountains!                 Below is a collage of some of our favorites!

 

                                                                     Great Smoky Mts National Park

  

                  A few Trilliums of GRSMNP (above), along with Pink & Yellow Lady’s Slippers (below)

                               

 

A brief stop to check out a warbler ID on our early morning bird walk, and a selfie with Theresa along the Little Pigeon River

Fire Pink (left), Lousewort or Wood Betony (center), Wild Geranium (right)

A momma Black Bear (right) waves to her two cubs (left) while foraging in a meadow at Cades Cove.

 

Turkey Thanks

Thanksgiving. That special day each year when we gather and remind each other of all the wonderful things we have to be thankful for, and……. we eat. For most Americans the meal centers on that wonderful fowl, turkey. Some choose the traditional technique of roasting (stuffed or not stuffed), others may braise it, grill it, deep fry it, broil it or barbeque it. Whatever method is preferred, one thing is almost always guaranteed-leftovers.  Even after the grand feast is over, the delectable surplus of turkey lingers on! Yep, the appetizing opportunities of turkey leftovers are endless. Turkey sandwiches, both hot and cold, turkey pot pie, turkey soup, turkey casserole, and another dozen ways to finish off the delicious bird.

 

When it comes to eating Thanksgiving turkey, I confess, I’m also a picker and a hoarder and tend to lose some of my common sense. As quoted from one of my all-time favorite holiday movies, A Christmas Story (1983),  “Now it is well known throughout the Midwest that the old man is a turkey junkie. A bona fide Gally Turkicanus freak. A few days before Christmas his eyes would begin to gleam with a wild and ravenous light.” On more than one occasion when no one is looking, I’ve burned my fingers peeling a small piece of crispy skin from the bird while still in the oven. I’m pretty sure this is why I no longer have any distinguishable fingerprints on my thumb and pointer finger. When the family is done with our wonderful meal and the great cleanup begins, I secretly grab a chunk of leftover breast meat, or a large, plump leg that everyone bypassed at the table and stuff it into a plastic container (or simply some aluminum foil) to hide in the back of the refrigerator-a food caching-technique I learned from my brother Eric!. My experience in top-secret stockpiling of turkey has taught me that most people exploring the refrigerator for leftovers will avoid what they can’t identify right away! I’ve even been accused of disguising leftover turkey as something else so no one else will touch it. I cannot comment on these accusations.

I love this bird! I love seeing a flock of Wild turkeys scratching the forest floor in search of beech nuts and acorns on a crisp October afternoon. I love hearing the loud, rich gobble of an old tom echo from a hillside, as he announces his territory on an early May morning, and I enjoy watching a seasoned hen lead her chicks into meadow in late July, combing every goldenrod for grasshoppers and crickets. Oh, and did I mention I love to eat turkey? White meat, dark meat, legs and thighs. Stick it between two pieces of white bread, splash on some mayo and top with a slice of tomato…wow! It’s all good. When it comes to dining on turkey, I’m easy to please!

Wild turkeys are much different than their domestic relatives. One main distinction is that, well, they’re wild! Not being captive and not having food provided by humans every day, makes Wild turkeys extremely wary, adaptable and pretty darn smart. A Wild turkey’s home range covers several miles, and a variety of habitats. Each night they’ll roost high in a big oak or pine tree and can escape danger in the blink of an eye. While hunting these birds, I’ve seen them run at speeds that would impress an Olympic sprinter, then take-off like a jet leaving an aircraft carrier, and glide a ½ mile across a valley out of sight, in just a few seconds. In addition, a flock of 30 birds can move through the underbrush as quiet as a mouse in their dark. Their mottled color is perfect camouflage while traveling through the forests and fields they inhabit. Not too shabby for the bird that Ben Franklin wanted to make our national symbol !

Proof of a Wild turkey’s craftiness was demonstrated to me one May morning during a spring gobbler hunting trip with Pa. It was 1978 and I had just turned 14 years old. Our destination was Fork Mountain in Wayne County, where Pa was born and raised. We woke up before dawn, ate a hearty breakfast and headed out to a favorite hillside where we knew turkeys might be roosting the night before. There was no trace of sunlight as we walked into the cold, dark woods and sat down next to a few large maples. The only sound came from a single Barred owl calling from a grove of Hemlocks just below us. The stillness of the forest and excitement of just being out there was almost more than I could take! After sitting silently for about 30 minutes, Chickadees and Titmice began singing around us as the eastern sky began showing a soft, orange hue. The last thing I remember at the time was thinking that I just wanted to close my eyes and rest for a minute, before it got light. After what seemed like just a few minutes, we were both suddenly awakened by the sound of leaves rustling and an explosion of “gobbling calls” only 20 feet away! I couldn’t believe it. Pa and I had both dozed off as a huge gobbler had quietly walked in behind us. I quickly turned to grab my gun, which had slid down into the leaves in front of me while I was napping, then banged my elbow on a tree I was half resting against. The big male turkey looked almost as surprised as I did, when it saw this “unfamiliar blob” tumbling around at the base of the large tree. Like a loud helicopter taking off from a pad, it flapped its large wings and burst through the canopy of the trees before I could manage to sit back up. It was halfway to NY by the time I thoroughly comprehended what had happened. I turned and looked at Pa, who was still rubbing his eyes a bit, when I asked, “Did we fall asleep?” With a smirk on his face, Pa replied, “You did, but I was just resting my eyes.”

Wild Turkeys help themselves to some free snacks at my sister Cathy’s bird feeders.

It’s generally believed that the “first Thanksgiving” occurred around 1621 in Plymouth, what is now Massachusetts. The Pilgrims and Puritans that emigrated from England brought over their tradition of “being thankful” for a bountiful harvest by celebrating with a large feast.  But that “bountiful harvest” was primarily due to help they received from the Native Americans that lived in the area. They taught their new neighbors how to grow corn and squash, as well as how to effectively fish the local waterways and hunt the vast woodlands, which included Wild turkeys. They accomplished this without the use of camouflaged clothing, high tech calls, blinds, decoys and other gadgets to simply make a Wild turkey surrender. Oh, and they used primitive weapons-no auto-loading shotguns or rifles with expensive scopes.

I wonder if an occasional Native American, or Pilgrim, burned their hand trying to covertly steal an early piece of meat as it cooked over the open fire. Do you think the “first Thanksgiving” had leftovers? If so, I bet a few of them hoarded a few extra pieces away in an unmarked pouch somewhere. Ahhh-the  tantalizing temptation of turkey, for almost 400 years! Let’s All Give Thanks!

Climbing for Color

Autumn is upon us, and that means its fall foliage time in the Appalachian Mountains once again! Now, in my October 2016 blog (True Colors, October 15, 2016) I explained why our broad leaf (deciduous) trees turned different colors, so I won’t bore you with all that technical science stuff again. Nope, just some basic search tips for finding some fall colors.

 

At this time last year, we were still living in Pennsylvania, which meant our trees were already peaking with their fall colors, since we were about 300 miles further north. But here at our new home in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, our reds, oranges and yellows are just starting to show, unless you venture to higher elevations. The Blue Ridge Mountains offer one of the most colorful and longest running fall leaf seasons in the world.

 

                 

One of the many reasons for this is due to the varied elevations, which show prime fall colors for more than a month.  Fall colors begin at the highest elevations in early October, and work their way down to the bottom in early November. So, if you’re a “leaf peeper” like me, to find early October color, you gotta go up! By trekking to higher elevations, you’re actually visiting tree level zones that are similar to forested areas much further north. This weekend that’s exactly what I did-I took Big Blue and we climbed to a few locations of +/- 3000’ elevation.

 

I first traveled west to Highland County in the Alleghany Mountains, on the WV border, where I was not disappointed. The maples, oaks, hickories and birches were displaying their brilliant colors under bluebird skies. A bonus was watching several migrating hawks along Shenandoah Mountain. My second journey was right in our own “backyard,” as I guided my family and my daughter’s boyfriend up to Shenandoah NP for a short, but amazing, hike to the Blackrock Overview. The cloudy skies and light drizzle didn’t damper our outdoor spirits, and we all enjoyed the high elevation tree colors, river of rocks and soaring (and calling) Common Ravens-it was well worth the climb, and I’ll be back very soon! Enjoy!

 

 

Coastal Ponies and Winged Wonders

When you mention the words Chincoteague or Assateague, the first thing most people may think about are the wild horses that inhabit the area. But for many visitors there may be some confusion as to where these ponies actually live-on “Chincoteague” or “Assateague?” Well, technically, the answer is both, sort of. Although the horses are referred to as the Chincoteague ponies, they really live on Assateague Island, and there are two distinct herds.

 

Assateague Island is a long barrier island that runs through the eastern parts of Maryland and Virginia. Simply put, any ponies that come off the island come from Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, which is found in Virginia, on the southern end of the island. The island is split by a fence to keep the herds on each side separate from one another.  The Maryland side of Assateague is managed by the National Park Service.  This end is called Assateague State Park.  On the Virginia end of Assateague, the horses are managed by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company, in the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Chincoteague is the neighboring island on the Virginia side.

 

Every year, the Virginia herd is rounded up in July for an event called Pony Penning.  The ponies are herded across the water by the “Saltwater Cowboys” over to the town of Chincoteague, where a number of foals are auctioned off to control the size of the herd.  The rest swim back to Assateague Island.  The Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge allows up to 150 adult horses on the refuge at one time.  This prevents the ponies from overrunning the island and using up their resources.  These ponies of the Virginia herd are called Chincoteague Ponies. The Chincoteague Pony is now a recognized breed. OK, got it straight now?

A small band of Chincoteague ponies marches directly toward Tyler

Recently, Tyler and I ventured east from our home in the Blue Ridge Mountains, to visit Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge along the Atlantic Coast. But the ponies were only one of the attractions we wanted to see. We also wanted to do some birding, kayaking, check out the lighthouse and maybe take a late season swim in the ocean. Due to strong winds we decided to bag the kayaking and the dip in the waves. However, we did enjoy some fall birding, saw thousands of migrating monarch butterflies and donated a pint of blood each to the many, hungry mosquitos! In fact, a few times our birding was done “on a quick jog,” as we juggled our cans of bug spray and binoculars, while crazily swatting hordes of the wicked, blood-sucking insects. At one point, we both stopped along a trail to check out a Painted Lady butterfly, and were attacked by a swarm of mosquitos that were bigger than the butterflies we were looking at! Before he could even swat one, Tyler had 15 on each leg! We quickly did a 180, and made a hasty retreat to Big Blue!

 

Thousands of Monarch butterflies were migrating through Chincoteague NWR (above), while a Bald Eagle and Great Blue Heron watch all the human visitors to the island (below)

                     

                                                                                          

                                         The Assateague Lighthouse….from afar, from below and from on top

Although the refuge was very crowded (free admission because it was National Public Lands Day), we did manage to see a variety of birds, one single Sitka deer and one of the endangered Delmarva Fox Squirrels……..oh, and yes, we saw many Chincoteague ponies, on Assateague! It’s a great place to visit at any time of the year, and we can’t wait to get back there!

                                             A small Sitka Deer grazes along the entrance road

      

 

September Summer

September is one of those months of the year that can still feel like the hot, humid days of summer are not quite over, or, offer much cooler weather that reminds us that Autumn will soon be with us. Although the calendar hasn’t officially changed to fall (September 22nd is the Autumnal Equinox), nature has already begun preparing for the next season. The leaves of some trees are already showing their true colors, many birds have migrated through and the hours of daylight grow shorter.

Theresa and I decided to take advantage of one of these “Indian Summer” weekends and headed over to Virginia Beach for a quick getaway weekend. We normally try to visit a beach at least one time each summer to take in the sand, surf and sun, but with our move from Pennsylvania to Virginia, we couldn’t squeeze it in. While living in SE Pennsylvania, our beach destination was usually Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware-about a 2.5 hour drive. At our new home here in Virginia, the closest public beach is Virginia Beach-a 4-hour drive.

                     

                    Sunrise over Virginia Beach, and an Atlantic Bottlenose Dolphin plays in the surf

We couldn’t have asked for better “September Summer” weather, even with Hurricane Jose’ moving north off the Atlantic coast. The air temps were in the low 80’s and the ocean water temperature hovered around 76 F. It was perfect for swimming and getting knocked on my butt by the waves over and over again! I must be getting weaker as I grow older, since the same 3’-4’ waves that were smashing my face into the sandy bottom, had no effect on the two 8-year olds standing next to me, pointing at me and giggling! However, I got even when I stood up and asked them if they felt something big go across their feet! They quickly departed the water for the safety of their family’s beachfront campground! Despite the fact that I served as oceanic entertainment for several kids, I did have fun in the surf!

Playing in the surf!

When we visit the beach, we have much more on our agendas than just getting up each day, lugging our 40 lbs. of beach gear, food and drinks out to the sand, then proceed to bake like potatoes. We enjoy rising early and seeing the sun rise over the ocean, chatting with some of the surf fisherman, watching many birds and other critters we can see in between the hordes of sunbathers, and hopping in the car to check out some of the other local outdoor attractions. On this weekend we visited two areas-First Landing State Park, just north of Virginia Beach, and Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge, about 30 minutes south.

First Landing SP is a cool park full of trails that surround a Bald Cypress swamp. In addition to the Bald Cypress, the forest hosts large Virginia Pines, Tupelo (Black Gum) and big Oaks. Although the park was full of both two-legged and four-legged visitors enjoying the beautiful weather, we did manage to see a few critters on our short walk, including a large Orb Spider that retreated to its hiding place in a rolled up leaf and lots of interesting fungi. The highlight was finding (after several minutes of careful looking) a Great-Horned Owl quietly perched near the top of a large oak tree. We would have never found it if it wasn’t for a flock of crows that were loudly mobbing it, trying to drive it away. The owl was not phased a bit, and sat intently until the crows got bored and flew away. It was a beautiful bird and we were thrilled to get a peek at seeing it.

 

Posing for a Cypress Swamp selfie, and checking out the “alligator-like” bark of a large, leaning Virginia Pine (above), and a hidden Great horned Owl (below)

Our last side trip before heading home was to Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge. This 9,250-acre refuge lies just south of the metropolitan area of Virginia Beach. It was established to provide feeding and resting habitat for migratory birds and preserve critical natural areas from rapidly increasing residential and commercial development. Back Bay NWR includes a thin strip of barrier island coastline typical of the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, as well as upland areas on the west bank of Back Bay. Habitats include beach, dunes, woodlands, agricultural fields, and emergent freshwater marshes. The majority of refuge marshes are on islands within the waters of Back Bay.

 

Although the clouds rolled in and we got caught in a light rain shower, we ventured out to the beach to see if we could see any interesting birds. Scattered among the many surf fisherman, we did manage to see many Brown Pelicans (we love watching them soar and dive in the water), Herring Gulls, Great Black-backed Gulls, Ring-billed Gulls, Laughing Gulls, a few Caspian and Least Terns, soaring Osprey, several Sanderlings and one Willet that was feeding on sand crabs. Our coolest critter find was on the way out, when we stopped to watch a 3’ Water Moccasin (Cottonmouth) feeding on a large, dead grasshopper on the side of the road. By the time I was done snapping photos of it, 5 other cars had also stopped, and one lady directing traffic so cars wouldn’t run over it. She asked me if it was safe to try and move it off the road so it wouldn’t get squashed. After educating this nice lady from Massachusetts as to what species of snake it was, she decided not to try and convince the reptile to move, but just make passing cars aware of it. She meant well, and I thanked her for her efforts!

 

          Brown Pelicans soaring over the waves, as one drops out of the sky diving for a fish.

A chunky Water Moccasin (Cottonmouth) gobbles down a large grasshopper on the side of the road in Back Bay NWR

 

It was a great trip to the Tidewater area and fun way to end the summer season…..maybe!

The Golden Hour

I pulled myself out of bed at 4:45 am. It was still dark and the 52 degree temperature outside was pretty chilly for late July in Virginia, but just the kind of morning I was hoping for. Sunrise was not for at least another hour, but I had to move quickly and find my locations. The recent heat wave finally came to an end, and as the overnight temps dropped, it created thick, morning fog that hung over the surrounding valley and mountainsides. Add some early morning rays of sunshine, and you can discover some excellent photo opportunities in these conditions, but the “golden hour” doesn’t last very long.

   

Fog drifts over a fresh cut hayfield at sunrise, and the surrounding valley.

Outdoor photographers love the golden hour. If the weather is favorable, it happens twice a day-right after sunrise and right before sunset , when the sun’s light is softer and not so bright. If you have a decent camera, the photos can be awesome!

Early morning sunlight illuminates a single tree in a cow pasture, with the Blue Ridge Mts in the background.

Most of my golden hour landscape locations I pre-scouted during regular daylight hours. Where exactly will the sun rise and what natural features could it highlight? Are there any human-made objects that may detract from the photo that I don’t want in the picture, or human-made objects that I DO want in the picture because it may add something special? Of course, is the location safe, and/or, will I be attracting attention I may not necessarily want? Most of my early morning encounters usually involve the good men and women in law enforcement, who, along with a few local farmers, are usually the only ones up at that time of the morning.

I liked the way these cows came out of the fog in the early morning hours to check me out. For this picture I wanted the farm in the background which gave the photo a “sense of place.”

Such was the case this past weekend when I had pulled my truck nearly all the way off a quiet, country road at 5:45 am, with my 4-way flashers clearly visible. As I waited for the sun to rise over a distant ridge, I could see in my rearview mirror a car cresting over the hill behind me. I knew exactly who it was. As I waived the sheriff’s deputy on by me, he turned on his lights, pulled up beside me and rolled down his window. Before he could say anything I politely told him I was just snapping some sunrise photos. Although it seemed as if it was an hour before he responded, a few seconds later he told me I was parked in the middle of the road and was blocking traffic, and I needed to find a safe place to pull all the way off the road. Without hesitating I simply said “OK officer,” as he sped away. I understood he was only doing his job.  I only stayed long enough to get my photo!

In this photo the sun had not yet risen and the angus were curious as to why I was stopped next to their pasture. I really liked the combinations of the cows, the fog, the tree and the mountains in the background. Many times the same location can result in very different photos just by waiting for the lighting to change. Notice the tree in this photo is the same single tree that is being illuminating in the photo above…it just happened to be 10 minutes earlier!